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THE CHEMISTRY AND ECONOMY OF SOUP-MAKING.
Stock being the basis of all meat soups, and, also, of all the principal sauces, it is essential to the success of these cooking operations, to know the most total and economical method of extracting, from a certain quantity of meat, the finest possible stock or broth. The theory and approach of this process we will, therefore, describe, and after that proceed to reveal the practical course to be adopted.
As all meat is primarily made up of fibers, fat, gelatine, osmazome, and albumen, it is requisite to know that the fibers are inseparable, making up practically all that remains of the meat after it has actually undergone a long boiling. Fat is dissolved by boiling; however as it is included in cells covered by a really fine membrane, which never ever dissolves, a part of it constantly sticks to the fibers. The other part rises to the surface area of the stock, and is that which has left from the cells which were not whole, or which have burst by boiling. Gelatine is soluble: it is the basis and the healthy portion of the stock. When there is an abundance of it, it causes the stock, when cold, to end up being a jelly. Osmazome is soluble even when cold, and is that part of the meat which gives flavour and perfume to the stock. The flesh of old animals consists of more osmazome than that of children. Brown meats contain more than white, and the previous make the stock more fragrant. By roasting meat, the osmazome appears to get higher homes; so, by putting the remains of roast meats into your stock-pot, you get a better flavour.
Albumen is of the nature of the white of eggs; it can be dissolved in cold or tepid water, but coagulates when it is put into water not quite at the boiling-point. From this property in albumen, it appears that if the meat is put into the stock-pot when the water boils, or after this is made to boil up rapidly, the albumen, in both cases, solidifies. In the very first it rises to the surface area, in the 2nd it remains in the meat, however in both it avoids the gelatine and osmazome from dissolving; and for this reason a thin and tasteless stock will be obtained. It ought to be understood, too, that the coagulation of the albumen in the meat, always happens, more or less, according to the size of the piece, as the parts farthest from the surface area always obtain that degree of heat which hardens it prior to entirely liquefying it.
Bones ought constantly to form a component part of the stock-pot. They are composed of an earthy substance, to which they owe their strength, of gelatine, and a fatty fluid, something like marrow. Two ounces of them contain as much gelatine as one pound of meat; however in them, this is so incased in the earthy drug, that boiling water can liquefy just the surface of whole bones. By breaking them, nevertheless, you can liquefy more, because you increase their surfaces; and by reducing them to powder or paste, you can dissolve them entirely; however you have to not grind them dry. Gelatine forms the basis of stock; but this, though very nourishing, is totally without taste; and making the stock savoury, it must consist of osmazome. Of this, bones do not contain a particle; and that is the reason that stock made entirely of them, is not suched as; but when you include meat to the busted or pulverized bones, the osmazome consisted of in it makes the stock sufficiently mouth-watering.
In concluding this part of our topic, the following condensed tips and directions need to be taken care of in the economy of soup-making:
Beef makes the very best stock. Veal stock has less colour and taste; whilst mutton in some cases gives it a tallowy smell, far from reasonable, unless the meat has actually been formerly roasted or broiled. Fowls add hardly any to the flavour of stock, unless they be old and fat. Pigeons, when they are old, include the many flavour to it; and a bunny or partridge is also a terrific enhancement. From the best meat the very best stock is obtained.
If the meat be boiled entirely making stock, it needs to be cut up into the smallest possible pieces; however, typically speaking, if it is wanted to have great stock and a piece of savoury meat as well, it is necessary to put a rather large piece into the stock-pot, say adequate for two or three days, throughout which time the stock will keep well in all weather conditions. Choose the freshest meat, and have it cut as thick as possible; for if it is a thin, flat piece, it will not look well, and will be extremely soon spoiled by the boiling.
Never clean meat, as it deprives its surface area of all its juices; different it from the bones, and tie it round with tape, so that its shape may be preserved, then put it into the stock-pot, and for each pound of meat, let there be one pint of water; press it down with the hand, to enable the air, which it consists of, to leave, and which commonly raises it to the top of the water.
Put the stock-pot on a mild fire, so that it may heat slowly. The albumen will first liquefy, later on coagulate; and as it remains in this state lighter than the liquid, it will increase to the surface area; bringing with it all its impurities. It is this which makes the scum. The rising of the solidified albumen has the exact same impact in clarifying stock as the white of eggs; and, as a rule, it may be said that the more residue there is, the clearer will be the stock. Always make sure that the fire is extremely routine.
Get rid of the scum when it rises thickly, and do not let the stock boil, since then one part of the scum will be liquefied, and the other go to the bottom of the pot; therefore rendering it really challenging to get a clear broth. If the fire is routine, it will not be needed to include cold water in order to make the scum increase; however if the fire is too big initially, it will then be essential to do so.
When the stock is well skimmed, and starts to boil, put in salt and veggies, which might be 2 or three carrots, 2 turnips, one parsnip, a lot of leeks and celery looped. You can include, according to taste, a piece of cabbage, 2 or three cloves stuck in an onion, and a tomato. The latter offers a very acceptable flavour to the stock. If fried onion be included, it ought, according to the guidance of a well-known French chef, to be tied in a little bag: without this preventative measure, the colour of the stock is accountable to be clouded.
By this time we will now expect that you have sliced the bones which were separated from the meat, and those which were left from the roast meat of the day in the past. Bear in mind, as was before explained, that the more these are busted, the more gelatine you will have. The best method to break them up is to pound them approximately in an iron mortar, adding, from time to time, a little water, to prevent them getting heated. In their damaged state tie them up in a bag, and put them in the stock-pot; adding the gristly parts of cold meat, and trimmings, which can be made use of for no other purpose. If, to make up the weight, you have bought a piece of mutton or veal, broil it slightly over a clear fire prior to putting it in the stock-pot, and be really mindful that it does not contract the least taste of being smoked or burnt.
Include now the veggies, which, to a specific extent, will stop the boiling of the stock. Wait, therefore, till it simmers well up once again, then draw it to the side of the fire, and keep it carefully simmering till it is served, protecting, as before said, your fire always the very same. Cover the stock-pot well, to avoid evaporation; do not fill it up, even if you take out a little stock, unless the meat is exposed; where case a little boiling water might be added, but only enough to cover it. After 6 hours' sluggish and gentle simmering, the stock is done; and it must not be continued on the fire, longer than is essential, or it will have the tendency to insipidity.
Keep in mind. It is on a great stock, or initially great broth and sauce, that excellence in culinary depends. If the preparation of this basis of the cooking art is intrusted to irresponsible or oblivious individuals, and the stock is not well skimmed, but indifferent results will be obtained. The stock will never ever be clear; when it is obliged to be clarified, it is deteriorated both in quality and flavour. In the appropriate management of the stock-pot an enormous deal of trouble is conserved, inasmuch as one stock, in a little dinner, serves for all functions. Above all things, the biggest economy, consistent with excellence, should be practised, and the price of everything which goes into the kitchen area correctly established. The theory of this part of Family Management might appear trifling; but its practice is comprehensive, and for that reason it needs the finest attention.
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