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ABC OF SOUP MAKING.
Lean, juicy beef, mutton, and veal, form the basis of all excellent soups; for that reason it is advisable to acquire those pieces which manage the richest succulence, and such as are fresh-killed. Stale meat renders them bad, and fat is not so well adjusted for making them. The primary art in making up good rich soup, is so to proportion the a number of active ingredients that the flavour of one will not predominate over another, and that all the posts of which it is composed, will form an acceptable whole. To achieve this, care needs to be taken that the roots and herbs are completely well cleaned, which the water is proportioned to the amount of meat and other ingredients. Usually a quart of water may be allowed to a pound of meat for soups, and half the quantity for gravies. In making soups or gravies, gentle stewing or simmering is incomparably the best. It may be said, nevertheless, that an actually excellent soup can never be made however in a well-closed vessel, although, perhaps, higher wholesomeness is obtained by an occasional exposure to the air. Soups will, in basic, take from three to six hours doing, and are better prepared the day prior to they are desired. When the soup is cold, the fat may be much more easily and totally eliminated; and when it is poured off, care must be taken not to interrupt the settlings at the bottom of the vessel, which are so great that they will leave through a sieve. A tamis is the very best strainer, and if the soup is strained while it is hot, let the tamis or fabric be previously taken in cold water. Clear soups have to be perfectly transparent, and thickened soups about the consistence of cream. To thicken and provide body to soups and gravies, potato-mucilage, arrow-root, bread-raspings, isinglass, flour and butter, barley, rice, or oatmeal, in a little water rubbed well together, are utilized. A piece of boiled beef pounded to a pulp, with a little butter and flour, and rubbed through a screen, and slowly included with the soup, will be found an excellent addition. When the soup appears to be too thin or too weak, the cover of the boiler ought to be taken off, and the contents permitted to boil till some of the watery parts have evaporated; or some of the thickening fabrics, above mentioned, ought to be added. When soups and gravies are kept from daily in hot weather, they must be warmed up every day, and put into fresh scalded pans or tureens, and placed in a cool cellar. In temperate weather, every other day may suffice.
Different herbs and veggies are required for the purpose of making soups and gravies. Of these the principal are, Scotch barley, pearl barley, wheat flour, oatmeal, bread-raspings, pease, beans, rice, vermicelli, macaroni, isinglass, potato-mucilage, mushroom or mushroom catsup, champignons, parsnips, carrots, beetroot, turnips, garlic, shalots and onions. Sliced up onions, fried with butter and flour till they are browned, and after that rubbed through a screen, are excellent to heighten the colour and flavour of brown soups and sauces, and form the basis of many of the great relishes provided by the cook. The older and drier the onion, the stronger will be its flavour. Leeks, cucumber, or burnet vinegar; celery or celery-seed pounded. The latter, though equally strong, does not impart the fragile sweetness of the fresh veggie; and when used as a substitute, its flavour ought to be remedied by the addition of a little sugar. Cress-seed, parsley, common thyme, lemon thyme, orange thyme, knotted marjoram, sage, mint, winter season savoury, and basil. As fresh green basil is seldom to be procured, and its great flavour is quickly lost, the very best method of protecting the extract is by pouring wine on the fresh leaves.
For the spices of soups, bay-leaves, tomato, tarragon, chervil, burnet, allspice, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, clove, mace, black and white pepper, essence of anchovy, lemon-peel, and juice, and Seville orange-juice, are all taken. The latter imparts a finer flavour than the lemon, and the acid is much milder. These products, with wine, mushroom catsup, Harvey's sauce, tomato sauce, integrated in numerous percentages, are, with other active ingredients, manipulated into an almost unlimited variety of exceptional soups and gravies. Soups, which are intended to constitute the primary part of a dish, definitely ought not to be flavoured like sauces, which are only developed to offer a relish to some particular meal.
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